FULLED DIAMOND TOTE by Susan A.S. Parker What’s the difference between fulling and felting? Felting is essentially the matting of fibers together. Fulling is the matting of knitted or woven fabric. Both shrink. Individual stitches in knitted, fulled fabric are often not recognizable as stitches. This entrelac tote is a great way to learn this cool technique. Knitting begins in rounds, switches to rows in the entrelac section, and then returns to rounds as you complete the tote. Let’s get started! Finished Size: Approx 10" wide at top, by 10.5” high, after felting, without handles Materials: - 5 balls of elann.com Peruvian Sierra Aran [80% Highland Wool/ 20% Alpaca, 83 m (91 yds) per 50g ball] – 1 ball in each of 5 colors (as pictured): Color 1: 0793 Blueberry, Color 2: 0780 Cinnamon, Color 3: 0796 Jasper, Color 4: 0785 Autumn Maple, Color 5: 0695 Mid Indigo - US 13 (9.0 mm) circular needle (32 or 40 inch length) - US 13 (9.0 mm) circular needle (16 or 24 inch length) - 1 Set of Purse Handles (purchased) - Stitch marker - Leather pieces or fabric to attach handles to the fulled tote - Smooth thread to attach leather or fabric for handles Gauge: 12 - 14 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm) in Stockinette Stitch holding TWO STRANDS of yarn together as one on US 13 (9.0 mm) needle Notes: 1. Gauge is not as important in this project since the finished size will be determined by the fulling / felting process. A somewhat loose gauge will often result in better fulling/ felting. 2. To achieve a similar look to this item when substituting colors, choose colors that have dramatic contrast from color to color to achieve a similar look. After fulling / felting, the colors will be more muted; don’t worry about “garish” combinations. These often work much better than expected. 3. To use two strands of yarn from 1 ball, pull the ends from both the center and the outside of the ball. It may be awkward to pull out the center. You may get a bit more yarn out of the middle than initially expected. Stitch Library: Make 1 Purl In the stitch on the left hand needle, make 1 stitch by purling into the purl stitch in the row below the active stitch. Three Needle Bind Off A third needle will be needed to complete this tote bag; it should be the same size as the needle used in the project or one that is 1-2 sizes larger. Divide the stitches evenly towards each point of the circular needle. Don’t worry if you have some of the flexible part of the needle hanging out between the middle where you’ve divided the stitches. The front circular point will now be called the “front” needle and the other will be called the “back” needle. As you work this technique, you will find that more of the flexible part of the circular needle will be seen since you are binding off stitches. This is normal, so feel free to keep the stitches from being distorted by sliding the remaining stitches closer to the working points. With the front and back pieces held together, take the third needle and knit into the first stitch of the front and the first stitch of the back piece at the same time and pull the new stitch off onto the third needle. Two stitches were just knit together to make one new stitch. Knit into the next stitch on the front and back needle at the same time. There are 2 new stitches on the third needle now. Pick up the first stitch made on the third needle and pass it over the second stitch (1 stitch bound off). Repeat knitting two stitches off the front and back piece together, followed by binding off the first stitch on the third needle, until all stitches on the front and back piece are bound off. Tote Top: Using Color 1 and shorter circular needle, cast on 50 stitches over two needle tips (remember to use 2 strands of yarn throughout the project!). Casting on over two needles tips held together ensures that the edge will be adequately loose; if this edge is tight, the top of the tote will draw in when it is fulled. Join in a round without twisting. Place a marker for beginning of round. This section is worked in rounds. Be sure to leave at least a 6 – 8” tail of yarn when switching colors so that the yarn end may be woven in later with ease. With Color 1: K1 Round Switch to Color 2: P1 Round, K1 Round Switch to Color 3: P1 Round, K1 Round Switch to Color 4: P1 Round, K1 Round Switch to Color 5: P1 Round, K1 Round Switch to Color 1: P1 Round Decrease Round (Color 1): *K3, K2tog*, repeat from * to * around. [40 stitches] Check your stitch count! Tote Body [Entrelac “Diamond” section]: The entrelac section is worked in ROWS. This will involve working only a few stitches at a time. Do not be alarmed! When the instructions state “turn”, turn the piece over and continue with the instructions. Switch to longer circular needle. Set Up Triangles: With Color 1 : Row 1 (RS): K1, Turn Row 2 (WS): YO, P1, Turn. Row 3 (RS): K1, SSK , Turn Row 4 (WS): YO, P2, Turn. Row 5 (RS): K2, SSK, Turn. Row 6 (WS): YO, P3, Turn. Row 7 (RS): K3, SSK, DO NOT TURN! 1 Set Up Triangle made. Repeat these 7 rows 9 more times for a total of 10 Set Up Triangles worked. In other words, there will be 10 small triangles sitting next to each other around the entire working edge. Right Leaning Rectangles: Notes on picking up stitches: using the new color, pick up 4 stitches evenly down the side of the set up triangle that does not have active stitches on it. Now start picking up the first stitch at the tip of the triangle and end in the valley. If the RS is facing you with active/ working stitches up and cast on edge at the bottom, the stitches will be picked up from left to right starting at the tip of the triangle and ending in the valley (or bottom) of the triangle. Use a crochet hook, if desired, to pick up the stitches. With Color 2 on RS, pick up 4 stitches (as described above) Row 1 (RS): K4, Turn Row 2 (WS): P3, P2 tog, Turn [Note: P2 tog consumes one Color 2 and one Color 1 Set Up Triangle Stitch] Row 3 (RS): K4, Turn Row 4 (WS): P3, P2 tog, Turn Row 5 (RS): K4, Turn Row 6 (WS): P3, P2tog, Turn Row 7 (RS): K4, Turn Row 8 (WS): P3, P2tog, Turn One 4-stitch Right Leaning Rectangle made. Repeat these 8 rows 9 more times, for a total of 10 Right Leaning Rectangles. In other words, there will be 10 rectangles leaning towards the right all around the entire working edge and all of the active stitches on the Set Up Triangles will have been worked. Left Leaning Rectangles: Notes on picking up stitches when working the Left Leaning Rectangle: With the right side facing, pick up 4 stitches evenly down the side of the RIGHT LEANING RECTANGLE on your right needle using the next color. Start at the tip and pick them up along the edge going into the valley. With the RS facing, the stitches are picked up from RIGHT TO LEFT this time (with active stitches up and cast on edge at the bottom), just the opposite of the Right Leaning Rectangles. Again, use a crochet hook, if desired, to pick up the stitches. With Color 3 on RS, pick up 4 stitches, Turn Row 1 (WS): P4, Turn Row 2 (RS): K3, SSK, Turn [Note: SSK consumes one Color 3 and one Color 2 Right Leaning Rectangle stitch.] Row 3 (WS): P4, Turn Row 4 (RS): K3, SSK, Turn Row 5 (WS): P4, Turn Row 6 (RS): K3, SSK, Turn Row 7 (WS): P4, Turn Row 8 (RS): K3, SSK, DO NOT TURN One 4-stitch Left Leaning Rectangle made. Repeat these 8 rows 9 more times, for a total of 10 Left Leaning Rectangles. In other words, there will be 10 rectangles leaning towards the left all around the entire working edge and all of the active stitches on the Right Leaning Rectangles will have been worked. For remainder of the entrelac tote body: Alternate a set of 10 Right Leaning Rectangles with a set of 10 Left Leaning Rectangles using color sequence as follows: Right Leaning Rectangles Repeat Right Leaning Rectangle instructions using Color 4 Left Leaning Rectangles Change to Color 5 Right Leaning Rectangles Change to Color 2 Left Leaning Rectangles Change to Color 1 Right Leaning Rectangles Change to Color 4 Finishing Triangles Change to Color 3. Pick up 4 stitches (RS facing), Turn to WS Row 1 (WS): P4, turn Row 2 (RS): YO, K3, SSK (1 st of Color 3 and 1 st of Color 4), turn Row 3 (WS): P3, turn Row 4 (RS): YO, K2, SSK, turn Row 5 (WS): P2, turn Row 6 (RS): YO, K1, SSK, turn Row 7 (WS), P1, turn Row 8 (RS), YO, SSK, DO NOT TURN! 1 Finishing Triangle made. Repeat these 8 rows 9 more times for a total of 10 Finishing Triangles. The knitting is now in one continuous round, just as it was at the top of the tote. The tote will be worked in the ROUND from here until the bind off. Close the Gap Round Continuing with Color 3: K1, * SSK * around, end K1. [41 stitches] Place a marker to mark beginning of round. Increase Purl Round Change to Color 5: P5, *Make 1 Purl, P4* around. [50 stitches] Tote Bottom: Using Color 5, K 4 rounds. If yarn is running low of Color 5 before 4 rounds are completed, switch to whatever color that remains of the yarns used or work fewer rounds. Perform 3 Needle Bind Off. Weave all ends in to same color section on WS. Trim woven in ends off flush with the surface of the knitted fabric. There will be a lot of ends to work in -- this is great for TV viewing activity. Fulling / Felting Instructions: Set washing machine to small load size – determine size based on number of items to be fulled. If there are several pieces, you may need to increase your load size. Set temperature to HOT. Fill the machine and set it for the longest wash cycle available. Use a little detergent if desired (not necessary). Place the knitted tote in a pillow case and close with safety pins if your washer does not have a lint filter. This yarn will shed a bit, so protect your washing machine! Also, front loading washing machines may require more time and a larger wash level to ensure complete fulling. Toss a pair or two of jeans into the washer along with the pillow case containing the knitted tote. Please do not use towels! Towels give off quite a bit of lint which will stick in the fulled piece and will require tweezers to remove from the fulled surface of the tote (not fun!). Close the lid and let the washer agitate the piece. After a few minutes, check on the tote’s fulling progress. Pull it out and see if it’s shrunk as much as desired. If the piece has not shrunk as much as desired, stop the washer before it enters the rinse cycle and begin it on another wash cycle. Once the piece is to the desired size, run the washing machine through the rinse cycle to remove any detergent that may have been used. Allow the piece to spin to remove the excess water. Alternatively, the piece can be rolled in a towel to remove the excess moisture. The piece will not dry as fast since this process does not remove as much water. Note that if the piece is fulled excessively, the fabric will lose its desirable, flexible texture. Excessive fulling will result in a very stiff, board-like fabric. Shape the piece and set it aside to dry completely. Trim any ends that may have worked their way out during the fulling process. The tote may be “shaved” if it’s too hairy for your tastes. Just be sure to toss the “whiskers” in the trash rather than running it down the drain. Finishing: Sew on purchased purse or tote handles (available on-line or in fabric/ craft stores) to the dry, fulled tote using pieces of fabric or leather cut as desired. If using leather, use a leather needle in your sewing machine with appropriate thread. If hand sewing, use a leather needle in conjunction with a thimble. Follow manufacturer’s instructions when sewing leather. Abbreviations: approx – approximate(ly), K = knit, K2tog = knit 2 stitches together, P = purl, P2tog = purl 2 stitches together, RS = right side, SSK = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, slip 1 more stitch as if to knit, slide the stitches back to the left needle, now knit the two stitches together, st(s) – stitch(es), WS = wrong side, YO = yarn over. Please note this pattern is copyrighted material and the entire contents of this pattern are copyrighted as a collective work under the copyright laws of Canada and the United States. You may print a copy of this pattern for your own personal use and enjoyment, but editing, publishing, transmitting, e-mailing, posting it to a list service or database, or otherwise commercially exploiting this pattern is strictly forbidden. Copyright Elann.com Inc.