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3/16/2005 4:28:52 AM
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Libby
Posts 7209
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I did a swatch for the AV sweater last night and found out that I needed the 8`s instead of the 7`s to get the correct gauge. Now does this meant that I`m gonna need more yarn as well because I needed bigger needles?
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3/16/2005 8:45:25 AM
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Shui Kuen Kozinski
Posts 13217
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Libby: I think you will need less yarn. Hope I am right.
Shui Kuen
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3/16/2005 10:07:24 AM
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Alice Trueman
Posts 1784
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Good question!
I think that if you are on gauge, you should be knitting the same number of stitches, each `on gauge` stitch should take the same amount of yarn to make it the same size as the pattern stitch, therefore, you need the same amount. Check the row gauge,if you need more rows to equal 10cm/4inches, then you`ll need more yarn. Here`s a simple way to get an educated guess. If the pattern calls for 30 rows and you are getting 32, that`s 2 more rows:
2/30 = 1/15 = 6.67% more yarn
24 rows and you are getting 26 rows:
2/24 = 1/12 = 8.33% more yarn
The interesting part comes, when you are a little under gauge and/or under row, and you add a few extra stitches on the sides and a few rows in the body, then you need more yarn, and a more complicated calculation.
Alice
Salt Spring Island
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3/16/2005 10:17:03 AM
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bea
Posts 624
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Hi Libby,
If you have the same row gauge and stitch gauge as the pattern, you`ll need the same number of yards. (You can think of it this way: if you trace your yarn continuously through the stitches and rows of your swatch, you`re travelling the same distance as the pattern specifies). If your row gauge is different, I`m not sure... but it would make sense that if you get more rows per inch than the pattern specifies, you`d need more yardage.
Bea
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3/16/2005 10:18:43 AM
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bea
Posts 624
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Whoops! Alice beat me to it, hee hee. =)
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1/16/2006 2:24:51 PM
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preciouspups
Posts 1714
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In doing the Ann Budd patterns, which are based on gauge, which direction do you go if you are between. Example: I have a gauge of 4 1/2, should I go up to the 5 for the pattern?
Kim
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1/16/2006 3:23:12 PM
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Guest
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Hi Kim,
Although I don`t know which Ann Budd patterns you mean, it`s my suggestion, to insure a good fit, that you might see whether you can go up a needle size (with the same yarn) and get 5 stitches per inch, OR go down a needle size to get 4 stitches per inch -- and still have a suitable-looking knitted fabric.
For example, if you go up to the pattern instructions for 5 stitches/ inch, but you`re actually working along, say, with 100 stitches cast on for a piece that is supposed to be 20 inches wide, you will find that 100 (stitches) divided by 4.5 (stitches per inch) = a piece which is 22.22 inches wide.
If that 22.22" piece is, for instance, the front or back of a pullover, then when we multiply by 2 (for BOTH the front and back), the total size around this "pretend" pullover will be 44.44 inches, instead of 40 inches.
Does this make sense? I hope this example is helpful. Please feel free to email customerservice@elann.com if you have additional questions.
Diane
Elann Customer Service
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1/16/2006 3:35:31 PM
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Guest
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I am never on the round inches in her book. I tend to rewrite the patterns to get the right size, using the shaping for the arms and neck for the with more stitches per inch as a guide.
Carol
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1/17/2006 5:36:18 AM
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Guest
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If you want more stitches per inch, you make the needle smaller. If you want fewer stitches per inch, make it larger.
For me, it is surprising how often, using worsted weight, 5.5 stitches per inch is on a size three, 5 stiches per inch on a size 5, and 4.5 stitches per inch on a size 6. I am a VERY loose knitter, however.
And, I always make a guage swatch, which is obviously what you are doing, if you are having this question, precisely to avoid the problem Diane is talking about...
T
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1/17/2006 9:18:50 AM
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Fran
Posts 351
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Dear Pups:
Somewhere in her book (I`m pretty sure), Ann herself says that if you are knitting at, say 3.5 st per inch, you can still use the tables by simply multiplying your desired width (say 20" for a front or back of a 40" sweater) x 3.5, which equals 70 st. You then go back to the tables and find the column which uses 70 stitches and follow that throughout the sweater. I know this works with kid sweaters, should be okay for adults, too. Basically, instead of knitting a 38 sweater at 4 st/inch, you might be following the numbers for a totally different size, but you will get the size you want based on your own st/inch measurement. This is always assuming you prefer the weight/drape of your fabric at 3.5 st/inch, or whatever. Suspect this might be as clear as mud, but read all of the book, and I think you`ll find Ann`s much clearer explanation.
Happy knitting -
Fran
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1/17/2006 5:48:42 PM
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Guest
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Hi,
Thanks to Fran, Theresa from Queensborough, and Carol for elaborating on how to work with Ann Budd`s patterns. I have just one other thought on the subject of changing the gauge of a pattern:
This concept in knitting, which comes more easily, or naturally, to some knitters than to others, is also incorporated in a product we offer - Knit to Fit Calc-O-Knit. This item will:
End those math headaches! Elegant knit garments that fit perfectly are yours with this handy gadget. Buy the yarn you like, use the needle size you like, make your own patterns, or change any pattern to fit you, easily and without error. Calc-O-Knit allows you to select your stitch gauge (number of stitches per inch), and then quickly shows you how many stitches you need for knitted piece dimensions up to 50 inches wide. (Elann`s price for this tool is $9.00 USD.)
Honestly, I`ve mentioned this item solely as an alternative, in case someone has been reading these "gauge" posts without having any Ann Budd patterns or books -- I am *not* trying to push any products. The beautiful yarns that Ann (Cannon-Brown) makes available (at wonderful prices) almost sell themselves!
My best to everybody,
Diane
Elann Customer Service
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