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<title>Elann Community Chat Center - Previous Website Chat - blocking question - Messages</title>
<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<description>Elann Community Chat Center - Previous Website Chat - blocking question - Messages</description>
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<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 07:11:04 GMT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 07:11:04 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from </title>
<description><![CDATA[I knit a swatch, bind off and measure the gauge, then wash it harshly if it may be washed and dry it in the dryer if that is a possibility and measure the gauge. I don`t block for determining the gauge unless blocking is a key element in determining the size and character of the knit. <br/><br/>I try to measure the gauge over at least 2 inches the way you describe and I also measure the gauge inside the selvege stitches of the whole swatch. If the numbers are different, I remeasure and determine which one I believe.<br/><br/>Once I have a few inches of the project done, I recheck the gauge and see if it is the same as the prewashed gauge from the swatch. <br/><br/>I tend to swatch for the next project while I am working on a current project. That gives me the patience to knit, wash, dry, and measure a few times. I can also then recheck the pattern calculations a few times. Letting the swatch knock around the house a while is a good wear test for the yarn -- especially now that I have a 10 wk old puppy. If it shows wear, I can take that into account when planning the garmet. Babies and toddlers were also good testers. If a little finger grab diddn`t ease back in, I had to adjust the gauge or plan for the yarn-- being a mother always came first &#40;I`ve known mothers who wouldn`t pick up their scraped child after a fall because they might damage their clothes!&#41;<br/><br/>-- Note, nothing I have gotten from Elann has failed the house test. <br/><br/>Carol]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 07:11:04 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from ScullyKnits</title>
<description><![CDATA[I knit a large swatch, wash it and spread it out to dry.  Then measure.  I ususally make my swatch with seed stich edges and measure only the middle.  That way it lays flat and is easier to measure.  Swatches smaller than 3 inches &#40;not including the seed stitch border&#41; are very hard to measure accurately and account for fractions of stitches per inch.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 07:08:20 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from suzann</title>
<description><![CDATA[I do it the way you do Libby. Unless you are trying to see how much it would shrink for felting. But don`t go by me. <br/><br/>suzann]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 07:07:11 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from ecasey</title>
<description><![CDATA[You should measure the swatch before and after washing, Lib - that way you`ll know how the fabric performs &#40;shrinking, blooming, etc.&#41;.  The bigger the swatch the more accurate your results, and you get to test drapiness too.  I don`t really bother with measuring after blocking a swatch because &#40;with non-lace&#41; blocking is an evening out process and shouldn`t radically change the measurements, and because &#40;for lace and non-lace&#41; blocking is to measurements anyway - hopefully you`re going to end up with the specific number of inches you deliberately pinned it out as.<br/><br/>The way I look at it, washing and leaving it to dry gives the fabric the measurement it wants to have, blocking it imposes the measurement you want on it - the first is definitely more accurate.  I`ve got into trouble before blocking out something that was too small, or blocking in something that was too big. It`s far easier just to work with what the yarn wants to do.  <br/><br/>For lace, just block until you get whatever level of openness you want, then take your measurements from there.<br/><br/>Eileen.  <br/><br/>Eileen.]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 06:57:17 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from preciouspups</title>
<description><![CDATA[Ok, I do it the lazy man`s way.  Sometimes I don`t even take it off the needles and I only measure what I have in an inch.  Then I look at their gauge and divide by 4 to see what they got to an inch.  I am just too impatient for gauge!  I just want to get started on the fun project.  Of course this may explain why sometimes tank tops don`t fit properly!<br/><br/>Kim]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 06:40:50 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from Libby</title>
<description><![CDATA[I checked out the &quot;Art of knitting&quot; DVD from the library on Monday and got to watch it last night.  I have to say that it is mostly for beginner knitters although I did get some good pointers with regards to color selections.  <br/><br/>Now the lady was showing how to block and she did it differently than I do.  She knitted up her swatch and the took it off the needles and then measured the entire piece and then calculated how many stitches were in each inch.  I normally knit the swatch.  Take it off the needles, wash and block it and then measure out 2 inches and then count how many stitches are inbetween the 2 inch markers and then multiply by 2 to see if mine is the same as the recommended gauge.  <br/><br/>So my question is what do the rest of you do.  and what is the best way to determine gauge?<br/><br/>Libby]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 04:46:42 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from Libby</title>
<description><![CDATA[I checked out the &quot;Art of knitting&quot; DVD from the library on Monday and got to watch it last night.  I have to say that it is mostly for beginner knitters although I did get some good pointers with regards to color selections.  <br/><br/>Now the lady was showing how to block and she did it differently than I do.  She knitted up her swatch and the took it off the needles and then measured the entire piece and then calculated how many stitches were in each inch.  I normally knit the swatch.  Take it off the needles, wash and block it and then measure out 2 inches and then count how many stitches are inbetween the 2 inch markers and then multiply by 2 to see if mine is the same as the recommended gauge.  <br/><br/>So my question is what do the rest of you do.  and what is the best way to determine gauge?<br/><br/>Libby]]></description>
<pubDate>Wed, 25 May 2005 04:46:41 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from Libby</title>
<description><![CDATA[Thanks Michelle, <br/><br/>It looks like I`m gonna have to go back and give it a good soak and then pin it.  I wasnt sure how to do this with the 2 layers but I understand now after reading your post.  I greatly appreciate your input as you are the poncho queen!<br/><br/>Libby]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jan 2005 11:30:17 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from MacChick</title>
<description><![CDATA[I can jump in on this discussion... I`ve made twelve ponchos and two shawls just this past fall, so it is all fresh in my mind!<br/><br/>They are ugly and doll-sized before blocking; you are truly knitting blind when making them.  You have to give them a good soaking, an even better stretching and pin them down with &#40;literally&#41; hundreds of pins.  <br/><br/>If you look in knitting books for help, you aren`t going to see directions for blocking a poncho... but a poncho is just a shawl with the front closed, and you will find directions for blocking a shawl.  In the old books, it will be called &quot;Dressing&quot; a shawl.<br/><br/>If you want a very good guide for doing it, complete with photos, go to the library and get Maryanne Kinzel`s *Second Book of Modern Lace Knitting* &#40;her first may have it, too, I`ve never seen a copy of that one&#41;, pages 20-22.  I highly reccommend this book for that part alone. There`s a shorter, but adequate description in *Mary Thomas`s Knitting Book,* page 194, and these are not all... just call your poncho a shawl, and you will find lots of hints in lots of books.<br/><br/>Pinning is everything... soak it for a half hour, squeeze out the water, then stretch the heck out of it and pin it down and leave it until it`s bone-dry.  Best to start with the extreme points, opposite sides, and gradually keep adding more pins in between.  <br/><br/>Don`t skimp on the pins.  By the time you are done, you will have pinned every single stitch of the edging and sides and top &#40;etc.&#41;, at the very least.  <br/><br/>If you have a good idea of what you want the finished size and shape to be, tape lengths of freezer paper to the board or carpet or bare mattress or wherever you are doing this, and draw &#40;with pencil, not with a marker that might run when wet!&#41; the outline.  Then start pinning at opposite sides and keep on pulling and pinning until you have that poncho pinned out to meet the edges of the drawing.<br/><br/>The one sort of tricky thing about a poncho is that you are pinning two layers of it at once, because it won`t open out into a single flat layer, but this is hardly a problem, just don`t forget to grab both the top and bottom layer each time you place a pin.  <br/><br/>The process is fun, and if you pin instead of iron, you have total control of the finished shape, size and look.  Much more beautiful results.  Ironing is a hack job, but if it`s your only option, it will at least open up the poncho to its correct size so you can see what it looks like and wear it.  <br/><br/>If you use an iron to block a lace poncho, it practically takes two or three people... you CAN do it by yourself, one little section at a time... &#40;but you have to use belly, elbows, and other body parts to hold it open in all directions while you give it a light steam... don`t flatten the stitches out too badly, if you can help it&#41; you really have to stretch the part you are steaming, stretch it in every direction at once, hold that pose until it dries, then move on to the next section.  Some places will come out a bit more stretched than others... it`s not ideal, but in a pinch, it will at least open up the poncho.<br/><br/>If at all you have the space to air-dry, that is MUCH better.  I have only recently switched to using the iron, because we have literally no spot indoors that is big enough... I always used to leave them out in the sun to dry, but then one of these horrid stray cats &#40;the woman in front lures with food, and there are now probably about 80 of them&#41; decided to spray all over my drying lace... of course that one had to be thrown away... so now it is indoors with the iron for me.<br/><br/>Don`t judge a poncho or a shawl by it`s un-blocked look!  And &quot;blocked&quot; does NOT mean just lay it flat to dry... you have to tell the wool what shape you want it to be, or will think it`s still on the sheep and curl up for a cozy nap!  <br/><br/>It isn`t shrinking, just curling up, and it will do it more when wet, just like what happens to people with curly hair when it rains or gets very humid... boing!  Their hair curls up about two inches shorter than it is in dry weather.  Your wool is doing the same thing... just needs a good style and set, that`s all!<br/><br/>Have fun!  You wil LOVE the results!]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jan 2005 08:14:52 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from ecasey</title>
<description><![CDATA[I used to block my pieces by pinning them down dry and then spritzing them with water and leaving them - but now I`m finding it better to immerse the pieces, squeeze out the excess, and pin.  <br/><br/>I think the wetting gives the piece more flexibility &#40;without it looking stretched&#41; and evens out the stitches, and then the process of drying while pinned to shape is what gives the piece the permanent shape you want it to have.  The pinning is very important - especially for lace - it`ll just go back to its original shape unless you pin.  Well, that`s what I find anyway...<br/><br/>Eileen.]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jan 2005 06:36:02 GMT</pubDate>
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<link>http://www.elann.com/Commerce.web/forums/messages.aspx?TopicID=136517</link>
<title>Message from Libby</title>
<description><![CDATA[I just finished my first poncho made from Orlov by Bouton d`or from VK this winter or fall? its the one with the pic of the lady on the front with the black sweater with beaded hearts and a silver dress....I dont have the issue in front of me or I would tell you.  and its the one knitted in the round with a simple cable on the front.  I finished it and well I was pretty dissapointed in it because its really really small and of course the pattern said that its a one size fits all. well this is a one size fits all very small kids &#40;like chicklets size&#41; so I washed it and rolled it up to get all of the excess water out and then ironed it and i`m letting it lay flat to dry.  this process got it to be a &quot;normal&quot; size.  That was yesterday.  So today I go downstairs to check on it and sure enough it looks like it shrunk again.  &#40;I didnt pin it in place&#41;<br/><br/>So here is my question.  does the washing of the fibers relax them and make them easier to manipulate to the shape that you want and then the drying process sets it? and does the drying cause the fibers to shrink again? and is this why you have to pin the item so it doesnt do this?  <br/><br/>Libby]]></description>
<pubDate>Sun, 16 Jan 2005 06:21:51 GMT</pubDate>
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